Wade M Welch Custom Finish Carpentry

Installing Your Over Oven Microwave

2010-06-30T19:16:00.000-07:00

For the inexperienced home owner, installing a microwave oven over your stove can be a scary endeavor. It is, however, simpler than you may think. There are two ways you can do this. One way is with the exhaust ducted to the outside and the other is to recycle the exhaust back into the house. For this article we will keep it simple and assume the exhaust is recycled into the house. Running the exterior exhaust is a topic for another day.

So your cabinets are installed and your electrician has run the wire and installed an outlet in the cabinet. You are now ready to install the microwave.

Unpack the microwave and set the glass trey and other components aside for a minute. Now on the back of the microwave you will find a large metal bracket. Remove the bracket by loosening the screws in the upper corners. Discard the screws and remove the bracket. Now find the studs in the space for the microwave and screw the bracket to the the studs where you can and use the toggle bolts where there are no studs. Once the bracket is secured open up the plastic bag with the documents and pull out the hole template. This template gives you the dimensions for drilling the holes for the mounting screws, thee external vent hook up and the power cord.

Begin now by finding your center of the cabinet. This is usually a 30" cabinet so the center is at 15". Make sure you take your measurement at the edge of the face of the cabinet where it attaches to the adjacent cabinet. Using a small square make a line from the wall to the front at the 15" mark. Now, if you look at the template you will see that all of the dimensions come off the center line and the rear of the cabinet on the inside of the lip. You must follow the dimensions exactly for things to fall into the right place. Take your measurements and make your marks for all of the bolt holes and the power cord hole. Drill the holes using the recommended drill size. Make up your filler blocks and pre drill them for the bolts. Your now ready for the microwave.

Pick up the microwave and raise it up into the bracket and slide it down until the microwave catches the hooks on the bracket. Hold the microwave down far enough to push the power cord up through the hole and set the filler blocks. Now raise it up with one hand and install the screws from inside the cabinet with the other. Hand tighten them as far as you can then finish with a screw driver. Plug in the power cord and you are done. Install the screens and the trey and your ready for use.

Masonry Construction and Repair

2010-06-28T18:19:00.001-07:00

Masonry Construction and Repair
Masonry Construction and Repair

By Chris Mayree

When it comes to custom masonry construction, masonry landscape projects, or masonry repair, most of us like the look of the finished product, but believe the cost is far too expensive to consider.
Although this may have been the case in our parents generation, masonry construction costs are actually affordable in today's world. This is partially due to the fact that materials such as concrete and mortar are mass-produced. Add to this the reduced labor involved in attaining rock materials, (more-efficient machinery for cutting, gathering and delivering natural stone products), and you have a win-win situation.
In fact, commercial masonry is one of the fastest growing industries in our country. With the advent of concrete stamping and its nearly undetectable resemblance to natural stone, the masonry construction industry is booming.
What this means to the consumer is that professionally-landscaped walkways, retaining walls, patios, or enclosed grilling areas are within nearly everyone's financial reach.
Nonetheless, there are some very important things to remember when considering the addition of stone or concrete accouterments to your property.
First, does the design flow? Nothing is more distressing than purchasing a soundly-constructed home whose yard has been sectioned into unrelated abutments that prevent strategic lawn chair placement, unrestricted patio access, or restricts movement throughout the lawn and garden areas. How do you avoid this kind of catastrophe on your own property? Seek the help of qualified commercial masonry professionals!
Once you have located a competent commercial masonry company, talk. Talk about every idea you have ever considered for your property. If you are speaking to a seasoned masonry professional, they will understand your concepts, improve upon them, and help you enhance the integrity of your space. They will be able to tell you whether you can best attain the look you prefer through the use of natural rock or concrete stamping. Additionally, a true masonry expert will be experienced at reconciling existing issues and, through careful planning, can incorporate both masonry repair and new construction into the same affordable package.
How will you know you have located a suitable masonry construction company?
· An experienced masonry expert will enhance your outdoor living space and help you implement your vision. Listen closely. Do they discard everything you say and ask you to go an entirely different direction, or do they build upon your concepts and make them better?
· A qualified masonry professional can actually save you money. Are you speaking with someone who provides realistic information about property angles, anchors, materials and labor? Qualified masons have been working in the industry for decades and know how to adapt appropriate materials to your particular landscaping needs, be they natural rock, rebar and stamped concrete or drain-able retaining walls.
· Look at examples of their work. Better yet - watch them work. True craftsmen make their task look easy, but take an extravagant amount of time on details that make the finished product look as if it cost a fortune to produce.

Get more than one masonry quote. Before making your final decision, converse with and check the portfolio of several masonry construction companies. In the end, your decision will be based as much upon the personal impression you got from the company as their price and contribution of ideas. Commercial masonry companies have a lot of competition these days - but true craftsmen still exist. They know the market, the amount of time required to produce excellent results, and take immense pride in their work. In the end, voting to save a few pennies by opting for a company whose work is inferior or who is asking that you scrap your vision in favor of theirs, can lead to years of discontentment.

Upon completion, your outdoor living area should be a place you are constantly drawn to. It should make you smile when you view and experience it. If so, you have been touched by the brush of a true artisan. Subsequent visits to this environment will only continue to gratify. You will want to invite others to share the experience. Using the services of a professional masonry construction expert can provide years of pleasure in your outdoor living area.
Author's Note: I would like to encourage you to check out Omega Masonry. Their craftsmen are experienced professionals who are creative and exacting in their work. If you live in the Dallas, TX, Richardson, TX or Plano, TX area, you are indeed fortunate that they are nearby.
Submitted Respectfully by Chris Mayree - Privileged article writer for http://Omegamasonry.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Mayree

http://EzineArticles.com/?Masonry-Construction-and-Repair&id=4444112

How to Install Flagstone

2010-06-28T17:57:00.001-07:00

How to Install Flagstone - Add Great DIY Value to Your Home
How to Install Flagstone - Add Great DIY Value to Your Home

By Lendell Oliver

Installing a flagstone patio is one of the most fulfilling do-it-yourself projects you can undertake. Not only will you be able to proudly declare that you toiled with your own hands to beautify your home, you can also regale your friends with tales of the money you saved by not hiring a professional (representative costs are in the range of $20 per square foot, resulting in a considerable outlay of $2000 for a small 10' X 10' plot). However, just knowing how to install flagstone is not enough to do a good job - you must learn to avoid some common mistakes. The following guidelines can be a good starting point:
1. Do not order flagstones over the phone or Internet. Visit the dealer in person to make the purchase. And before going, be sure to finalize the color, shape and texture you want. Ensure that you buy the right quantity; if required, make multiple trips.
2. Use proper tools. Do not depend on makeshift implements to do the work.
3. Ensure you have a solid base. If you do not, the stones may shift resulting in a crooked patio.
4. Ensure that any cracks and gaps between stones are properly filled to prevent tripping.
5. Ensure that the level of the stones is slightly higher than the surroundings to prevent accumulation of water.
The best resource to teach you how to install flagstone, and to avoid the aforementioned mistakes, is someone who has made this a lifelong vocation. Although it does not require the brains of a rocket scientist to learn how to install flagstone, it does take knowledge, skill and some hours of backbreaking effort. Amidst the numerous DIY guides available today, choose the one that promises to be thorough without promising miracles.
Most people have a basic idea of what this project is all about, but a step-by-step guide with detailed instruction and graphics is invaluable to the success of your project. Get more tips and techniques to help you with your project and review one of the best how to install flagstone guides I have found at FlagstonePatioInstallation.com.
Do yourself a favor and purchase this inexpensive, comprehensive guide before you begin your upcoming Flagstone Patio Installation project.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lendell_Oliver

http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Install-Flagstone---Add-Great-DIY-Value-to-Your-Home&id=4537517

Haiti Reconstruction

2010-06-10T10:31:00.001-07:00

I recently attended the Haiti reconstruction forum in Philadelphia to learn about acquiring US government contracts in Haiti. Those who know me knows the close family ties I have with the disaster because my wife is Haitian and she has a lot of family affected by the quake. It is our plan to visit Haiti and get involved with the re build when the time is right. The forum was very informative and I got to meet some key people such as Jean-Sebastien Riche who is the Consulat General de la Republique d' Haiti. I also spoke with Alfonso C. Jackson of the US Department of Commerce, Tony Ceballos of the international Trade administration and Dino Ramos of the World Trade Center of greater Philadelphia. Also present were representatives of US Agency for International Development (USAID) who has taken a key roll in distributing the money and contracts for the work to be done. The contracted work can be found on the USAID web site, http://www.usaid.gov/ Here you can find business opportunities as they are posted and bid on them.

Another website to check is https://www.fbo.gov/Here you will also find contracts to bid on. These contracts are not for the small companies like myself because they are multi million dollar contracts. The key here is to find out who the contractor is, then find out who the sub contractors are and work up another subcontract with them or possibly a job with a sub contractor. I'm still learning how this is is done so as I learn I will forward the info here to those who may be interested.

Haiti's reconstruction is not limited to the quake damage. All of Haiti will be getting improvements such as new roads, 2 more major air ports, another deep water shipping port, designated crop lands, numerous vacation resorts, upgraded telecommunications and electrical power plants on top of all of the new residential housing projects. With my skills in telecommunications construction and residential construction I will be able to spend the rest of my life working in Haiti if I so choose. If working abroad sounds good to you consider Haiti.

Saving with solar

2010-05-31T07:45:00.000-07:00

Here are some good tips on saving energy with solar energy

What Are the Different Home Solar Energy Systems and Which One is Best?

By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Roy_Stonebright]Roy Stonebright

With energy prices soaring high, what options do you have to save money in this struggling economy? The answer is right below your nose- the use of home solar energy. Its initial set up may be costly but in the long run it is worth every penny you paid for. The most popular home solar energy system is thermal. This technology uses the heat coming from the sun for heating spaces and water. Thermal can also be used for cooling spaces, ventilation, desalination, cooking and many other household purposes.

Another commonly used system is the solar water heater. Solar water heating is not a new technology and implementation is forthright. The solar water heating system is made of solar collectors that heat the water when it circulates through tubes. Once heated the water flows into a large tank and is readily available for use.

The same system can be used for heating spaces. Solar collectors can also produce distilled water by evaporation. Solar panels known also as photovoltaic, transforms the sun's energy to electricity. The sun's energy is also used to provide electricity by installing solar panels on the roof or on the ground. Another widely used home solar energy system using solar technology are solar lights, solar fountains and solar pumps.

After deciding to convert your home sweet home into an environmentally-friendly powered house, you ask yourself "how do I choose the best home solar energy system?" Well, it all depends on your location, the size of your house, the number of household members and the electronic devices you own.
If you are thinking about installing a solar powered system in your home, you will also need to know your average daily energy consumption. You can obtain this information from your local utility company. Using this as a basis, you will be able to choose the best home solar energy system to fit the needs of your house.

The climate in the area you are currently located will have an impact on energy use; big trees can provide shade and help lower cooling bills during the summer, while the bare tree limbs lets the sunlight in your room during the winter, as will the direction your windows face, the number and location of trees on your site, and the number of appliances you own. Even the smallest detail like the kind of light bulbs you use can make a difference. All of these factors have impact on choosing the best home solar energy system base on your needs.

The good thing about using the suns energy is the reduce in energy bill but choosing to be one of those solar powered homes will not only have positive impact on your finances by cutting cost but it actually allows you to effortlessly help save the earth from greenhouse effect. Indeed, the world can be helped just through the use of the sun's energy. By using the solar power, you can actually lessen the amount of carbon dioxide in the environment thus saving the environment from further damage which can cause climate change.

The initial set up may cost you hundreds or thousands of dollars but after installation it is essentially free. Its maintenance is usually minimal, just a quick scrub down of the panels once or twice a year, and an adjustment of their placement to catch the sun at some latitudes. There are some electricity companies who are interested to buy back excess production from the homeowners of solar energy system. Hey, how's that for saving the planet and getting paid for it.

Roy Stonebright is fanatical about saving money and energy. For more information on having an [http://www.savingenergysecret.com/home-solar-energy-system/]home solar energy system visit [http://www.savingenergysecret.com]http://www.savingenergysecret.com.

Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?What-Are-the-Different-Home-Solar-Energy-Systems-and-Which-One-is-Best?&id=4381531] What Are the Different Home Solar Energy Systems and Which One is Best?

Virtual design

2010-05-24T10:36:00.001-07:00

Here is a fun project I did some time ago while I was learning how to use my Punch design software. This is a rendition of my house in Bristol all re done with a second floor and other additions. The second floor is a master bed room and bath. The first floor master bed room was converted into a formal living room which extended out the back towards the pool and has a deck on the roof accessed from the 2nd floor bed room. The wall and closets were taken out and French doors were installed dividing the living room from the dinning room.
Here is a view from the back of the dining room facing the french doors into the living room. The kitchen is on the right. Here you can see the steps up to the 2nd floor. I don't like the position of the steps but it seemed to be the best location for them based on the floor plan and existing conditions.

Back outside we have the virtual garden complete with fish pond and trellis.

The program includes many materials and plants making it easy to create whatever comes to your mind.

The program also allows me to create 3D images such as this corner cabinet I designed for a client's dining room, and show them what it would look like in place.

Here I was able to show my client what his bathroom would look like with the linen closet he wanted was completed.

This gives an idea of the kind of information I can provide a client when they accept me as their contractor and work together to budget their project.

It is not typical for me to "bid" projects in the traditional sense. My experience has been that the focus of this approach is mainly cost, without equal consideration to other critical issues. I don't believe our inclusion in a traditional bid is in my client's best interest.

Most frequently, I work with my clients to negotiate a preliminary budget. That is part of what the renditions are for. With that, we continue together as a team to refine the scope, adjusting scheduling and budget issues as we progress. Upon occasion, I have prepared estimates for a fee and then applied that fee to the project once a start date is locked in.

As you move forward with a project, should you decide that you would like to consider a negotiated bid approach, I would enjoy talking to you.

Lowering Your Mortgage

2010-05-22T21:35:00.000-07:00

It's no secret that the construction trades have been hit real hard in this economy and my business has felt pain. After trying to work with my mortgage company and other mortgage counseling companies and getting nowhere, I was given the number for NACA.

To use NACA to help with your mortgage go to NACA.com and click on "home save". From there you will need to schedule a workshop. At the workshop you will learn who NACA is and how they work and what you will need to do to help yourself through the process. At this workshop you will be scheduled for a face to face meeting with a counselor. During the period between the workshop and the meeting you will have to put together documents related to your current income status, your mortgage information and any other information they may ask for and fax it to them. Also you will be required to fill out a series of forms online for them.

At the meeting with your counselor you will go over the faxes and online forms and work up a budget for your new mortgage payment that you can afford. Once this budget is done, all of the info is sent to their negotiator and they work with the lender to lower your mortgage to the budgeted number. For this process to work for you, you must have a legitimate hardship. Believe me, they will know if you are lying. Are there guarantees? No. Though most people do get the help they seek there are a few for whatever reason are turned down. It's usually that your particular lender is refusing to work with NACA. There aren't too many of them out there but they are out there.

So, if you are having trouble with your mortgage, go to NACA.com and start the process. It doesn't matter if your in foreclosure. I was in foreclosure. It doesn't matter that you already have a sale date. Contact them and they will stop the sale. The chance that it will work for you far out weighs the chance that it won't. I lowered my mortgage from $1527.00 per month to $1052.00 per month and this IS for the life of the loan.

Leak Proof Shower Wet Bed

2010-05-17T16:56:00.000-07:00

I'm going to tell you how I install a leak proof shower wet bed. If you do this correctly it will indeed be a leak proof shower. First, make sure the plumber installs a 3 piece drain assembly used with rubber shower membrane. Make sure you install 2x6 blocking around the shower to attach the liner. Remove the piece held down with bolts and cover the drain with masking tape. Take a board and a level and transfer the height of the drain to the wall. This part of the drain is 1/4 inch high so make a mark 1/4 inch on the wall then measure up 1/4 inch for each foot to the drain. This is the height of your first layer of cement.
Install the cement using a board to maintain the slope from the wall to the drain all the way around. If this is your first time you may have to work at this step to get it right. Remember, this is the first cement installation that goes under the rubber membrane. The purpose for this is to slope the membrane to the drain. In doing this you will never have water build up in the rubber membrane under the tile like you do in regular membrane installations. This will also help eliminate mold in the shower.

Remove the tape from the drain and
install the rubber membrane as you would in any installation. Lay out the borders with a marker and straight edge leaving 7 to 9 inches above the finished floor and about 16 inches for the curb. Lay the liner in place with the flaps folded in and center the liner in the shower. With a razor knife cut slits in the liner where the bolts are and pop the liner over the bolts. Reinstall the liner seal and tighten the bolts firmly making sure the liner is flat under the seal. With your razor, cut out the drain hole. Fold the flaps up the walls and nail them about 1/2 inch from the top making sure you don't pull up too much on the liner. Fold the corners neatly and nail in place then wrap the curb. Once the liner is in place tape the drain and fill the liner with water to within an inch of the top of the curb and let it stand over night to check for leaks. In the morning if the water is still there you can be sure there are no leaks. Remove the tape, drain and dry the pan. Now your ready to install the remainder of the wet bed. Install the final piece of the drain assembly leaving enough room under it for a small handful of pea gravel used to keep the cement from clogging the weep holes. Take your board and level and repeat the earlier step of transferring your height of the drain to the wall and adding 1/4 inch per foot to the drain. Install the cement and use reinforcing wire in this part of the installation. Again use a board to work the slope all the way around the shower to the drain.
Let it cure over night and your ready to tile.

Concreted Deck Piers

2010-05-16T16:22:00.000-07:00

I want to talk a little about concrete deck piers and the reason they are important.
The pier is the foundation of your deck and needs to hold a very high concentration of weight on a small area. The depth of the pier is related to the frost line in the area where you live and the thickness of the pier or number of piers is related to the amount of weight each pier will hold and the type of soil you are building in. First, all foundations need to be below the frost line. The frost line is the depth at which the ground freezes or has frozen in the past. This freezing can cause the ground to expand as much as 10 percent and raise up shallow foundations and slabs when the freezing occurs. This pushes up on the foundation and the resulting movement can then cause damage to the foundation. Living and working in the Philadelphia, Pennsylvania area requires me to set all piers a minimum of three feet into the ground, well below the deepest frost line I've personally seen of 18 inches.

For this deck we used 6x6 cedar for the posts and encased them in 10 inchs of concrete with reinforcing wire. As you can see the holes we dug for the piers are very wide even compared to the 10 inch concrete tubes. The reason for this is to let the concrete spill out from below the tube creating a very wide foot for the pier. The old deck piers were only surrounded by concrete at the top ground level and the piers had sunk into the ground a bit and rotted. Our aim was to keep that from happening again.

Once the 6x6s were set in place we raised them up off of the ground a few inches to let the concrete flow around them. We then braced the 6x6s using 2x6s to hold them up and 2x4s to keep them plumb until the concrete cured.
Once the concrete had hardened we back filled the pits and tamped them tight. These piers are going no where.

Securing your exterior door jam against break in

2010-05-01T09:53:00.000-07:00

There are many products on the market designed to protect the door against break ins but the problem is not just in the door. The door is only as secure as the jam is strong. I've had the unfortunate experience of being broken into twice in my life. Both times the door was intact but the jam lay shattered on the floor. It is true that we live in a very false sense of security in our home. I'm going tell you how I've secured my jam and the jams for many of my clients over the years. Understand that this is not a fail safe but extra security in a vulnerable location.

First you must understand just what secures your door. Your dead bolt and door latch protruding into a piece of 1x lumber and into a 2x4. The dead bolt has a plate that gets screwed into the 2x4. That plate is the extent of the security on your door. The door latch holds nothing. There is no security with the door latch.

So this is the simple way I've secured doors. First remove the molding on the latch side of the door. It starts with a 1 inch to 1.5 inch piece of angle iron about 3 to 4 feet long. This is the hardest part of the job. To make it look good you must then notch the 1x on the door side face and on the front edge to fit the angle flush into the wood. This notch may extend into the 2x4. Now mark for the door latch and the dead bolt and drill out the holes. Next drill the holes for the screws that will hold the angle in place and counter sink them so the screws are flush. Be sure to put a screw on both sides of the dead bolt and door latch and put screws down the face and the front so it is held from both directions. Once all screw holes are completed, install the iron using 4 inch deck screws. You will need to pre drill for screws this long. Once the screws are in place you can now re install the door molding. Drill through the steel for your nails if you need to. Next, using self drilling screws install your latch plates. With a little caulk and paint you will hardly know it is there.

What makes this work is the over all length of the steel. An intruder may break the wood at the latches but to kick the whole iron out is almost impossible. After a few good kicks the intruder will move on because of all of the noise he is creating in trying to enter your property. Remember always try to have a good alarm system to protect against break ins. This is just one more way to help keep you and your family safe.

Working the Production Line

2010-04-26T12:28:00.000-07:00

I had the opportunity on Friday 4/23/10 to work for a new home builder, Bob, in my local area. He was very nice to let me join his crew and see how the production end of this business works. It was interesting to see how I compared with their quality and speed. Though the work is a lot easier than renovation because less thought is needed the speed one has to work was a bit of a challenge to me. I thought I was fast, and people said I was fast, but I'm sad to say I can be a lot faster. I hope to sit in on other projects with Bob in the future if his men are willing. It will do me a lot of good to add more speed and some technique to my talents. The guys I worked with were all very good and were not unwilling to answer questions and show techniques. I have to admit though I was nervous working with them and it showed in my work but I corrected the mistakes and plunged ahead. Thanks Bob for the opportunity!

Building the Green St Stair Way Shelves

2010-04-25T11:52:00.000-07:00

Here I would like to go into detail on the building of the shelves on the Green St renovation project. I began by making a series of boxes, 4 in all, 2 units wide and 1 unit high. Then I put them together overlapping units as seen in the picture. The size of each box was determined by the overall length of the staircase and input from my client. Perfection on how the shelves fit was not an issue because nothing in this house was perfect.

After fastening the shelves to the knee wall at the top of the steps and leveling the shelves I framed in supports and sheet rock nailers all of the way down both sides and the front.

Once the framing was done I cut in the sheet rock with as few joints as possible all around both sides. Next I cut the stair treads to receive the stair base board and made a paper template of the stairs for cutting the base board.

I was now ready to cut out the base board so I laid the template on the lumber to be used and made my tracing. I then removed my template and carefully put it aside in case I needed to use it again. I made my cuts with a jig saw then put the board in place.

With the base board done I moved on to the trim to cover the plywood ends. These were just strips of wood I cut and routed and glued in place to finish off the shelf ends.

With the addition of a decorative column and a coat of paint the stair well shelves were completed

Sunburst Window and Door Repair

2010-04-24T17:54:00.000-07:00

Here I had a sunburst window that was in trouble. Its deterioration was not life threatening but was causing real problems below.

Over the years poor maintenance had caused the window to deteriorate and leak when it rained. This leakage had then caused the window and the door below to begin to rot. The window also warped and periodically the openings created were just filled with caulk instead of repairing the problem. This warping created the danger of the glass possibly breaking and it is the only original glass left in the home.
I decided to repair the door below because it didn't look too bad. That however wasn't the case at all. With a few pokes and a push the door bottom was a pile of rot on the floor. The window I saw had slipped down into the door about 1/2 inch, now I knew why. I removed the window, assessed the damage and made the repairs bringing the door back to life. Though the door was sealed and not used I made the repairs so that someday the door could be opened again. I even replaced the threshold.

Now, with the glass installed and the wood primed I was ready to move up to the window.

I began the window by removing all of the glazing and a few pieces of the glass. After loosening the the remaining glass I cleaned out the build up of caulk behind the warped bottom rail of the window and carefully pulled the rail back into place by screwing it into its inner molding. By loosening the glass I allowed everything to move back into place without breaking any glass.
Now that the window was re aligned I could make the repairs to the outer frame. Because of the bowing and the rot, the outer frame corners were cracked and rotten all the way through so I needed to make new pieces to fill in.

Here you can see the missing piece of the frame corner where it attached to the rail. With a larger block of wood I replicated the diameter of the window and routed the seat for the glass and the detail on the inside. I then cut the piece out to size and put it in place using construction adhesive, brad nails and filler. This was done on both sides. New 1/4 round was installed and then the glass was reinstalled and re glazed to complete this project.

Coping With Scribing(Profiling)

2010-04-18T15:23:00.000-07:00

In carpentry, scribing is an art that, with practice, can earn you a reputation in high end finish work. It can take some time to work out the kinks but once you do you will never look at yourself quite the same way. The use of scribing may vary but will usually be related to meeting the contours of a wall, floor or ceiling with your finish carpentry. To give you an idea of how I use scribing I'll tell you how I did the shelf edging in this picture.

First, take your board and cut it to length. Do not cut your width until you've completed your profile. Now take the board and lay it against the wall where it will be seated. Next, take your compass and set it to the widest gap you can find between the board and the wall. Run the compass from top to bottom slowly, trying to be as accurate as you can with the contour. The better you are with this step and the next step the better will be your results. Once you made your line, take the board and with a gig saw cut on the line as accurately as you can. This step is just as important as the previous step moving slowly as you go and staying with the line you made. Once you've finished you can lay the board in place to see how it fits. At this point there are 3 ways this will go. 1) It will fit perfectly and you move on to the next step. 2) Its not quite where you want it. If this is the case you put the board in place and again find your gap, set your compass and make a new line. Some times you may need to make a couple of passes before you get a tight fit. The 3rd way is your profile is good but there is a reverse contour running the thickness of the board. To fix this you will need to run a coping saw down the length of the cut to under cut your profile as I did on this booth.

Back to #1 above. The next step after you've cut your profile and your happy with it is to size the board and fix it to the shelf. To do this you have to pay attention. Put the shelf in place. Lay the board up against the shelf and as close to the wall as it will go. Mark a line from top to bottom on the inside of the board. Now, take that line and move it over 3/4 inches towards the profile because the profile is mounted to the outside of the shelf. Cut your board on the table saw and fit it in place. Touch up with sand paper where needed and fasten in place. I used Glue and finish screws, pre drilling the holes to prevent splitting.

Here is a typical situation you may run into while installing molding such as this chair rail in a 180 year old house. This is where the wall and fireplace come together. as you can see the fireplace wall has a slight bend in it that would leave a large opening where the corner wraps the outside of the fireplace. Instead of trying to fill the opening with gooey caulk that would take days to cure and look bad I simply profiled the piece of chair rail. The loss in overall thickness is hardly noticeable when viewing the chair rail normally.
Like coping, profiling is a must know for the finish carpenter.

Restoration Hardware

2010-04-11T18:41:00.001-07:00

If your looking for that old time look, restoration hardware may be just what your looking for. You can find restoration hardware readily available online or at local specialty hardware stores that carry a large selection of door hardware and cabinet knobs and pulls. You can find restoration hardware in all price ranges such as this solid brass mortis door hardware set custom made for this door which is about 31/2 inches thick. It came at a price of $1200 so you know I took great care in installing it.

You can get restoration hardware for any time period. Victorian, early Colonial, art deco, etc., are all available in different finishes. To preserve the authenticity of the door you will want to keep the doorknob locksets that sport full-mortise lock and latch mechanisms. These traditional mortise lock sets require a large, deep cavity in the edge of the door that holds the box shaped door mechanism. A bar is then inserted through the door and holds the door knobs. Todays door knob sets are tubular and requires a large diameter hole cut through the face of the door for the knob set and a smaller hole through the side of the door for the closing mechanism.

Also consider other restoration hardware such as curtain rods, shelf brackets, coat hooks, cabinet and dresser pulls, knobs, hinges and even heat and air registers. Another item I've seen are hand hewn and twisted metal balusters, old time mail boxes and mail slots, horse head posts, water pumps, shoe scrapers. Whatever it is you want you can find it.

So check out your neighborhood restoration hardware store and be amazed at the variety of old style hardware you will find.

Thoughts about Advertising

2010-04-10T07:25:00.001-07:00

When I began Remcon Services back in 2001 I handed out 50 fliers in the Chestnut Hill section of Philadelphia. Out of those 50 fliers I got 1 client. Out of that one client I was in business for 10 years through word of mouth advertising. Word of mouth is indeed the best form of advertising you can get because most people who call already want to do business with you so it cuts down on the competition factor. Many contractors I've talked to about the advertising they do have all told me the same thing, they don't advertise, it's all word of mouth. When I ask what their yearly billings are I get pretty much get the same answer from all of them, about 75,000 to 100,000 dollars per year. So I can see the limitations of word of mouth advertising. If I want to bill more than 100,000 dollars per year I need to expand my advertising beyond word of mouth. So, you will begin to see Remcon Services & Associates banner ads in your local papers beginning with the Chestnut Hill Local. Newtown and Yardly are also on my list of target areas.

So as we enter into our second decade let us keep in mind the commitments that have brought us to this point of growth, to strengthen us as we continue into the future.

1) Our commitment to honor our craft with creative design, packaged with a high quality construction.

2) Our commitment to a "client-first" attitude.

3) Our commitment to exceed our client's expectations.

4) Our commitment to provide our clients with a team alliance dedicated to completing a project on schedule, within budget and free of defects.

5) Our commitment to honesty, value and professionalism.

6) Our commitment to creative problem-solving.

7) Our commitment to promptly service our work in the event of problems.

8) Our commitment to effective business management.

9) Our commitment to provide our community with good will and to care about the environment in which we live.

10) Our commitment to enjoy what we do everyday!

Soldering Copper Pipe

2010-04-04T11:48:00.000-07:00

For those home owners who insist on doing there own plumbing projects here is a little guide to assist you with the soldering of the copper piping used in home plumbing systems. First I should point out that if you do your own pluming installations you should have a general idea of the codes governing such installations. You can find the codes for your state at this link http://www.archive.org/details/publicsafetycode older

Soldering copper pipe is not as difficult as a lot of people think it is. The number one requirement to a successful soldering experience is cleanliness. Thoroughly clean the inside of your connections with a wire reamer brush that you can buy at any hardware or plumbing supply store. Now thoroughly clean the out side of your pipe at least 1 inch beyond the end of the fitting with emery cloth or steal wool. It's also not a bad idea to de bur the inside of the pipe with your pliers. Some pipe cutters come with a triangular blade sticking out of its back, this is a de burring tool. Use it to remove any debris left from cutting the pipe that may hinder the soldering and cause a leak.
The next step is to apply the flux. The flux acts as a cleaning and bonding agent so that the solder will adhere to the copper and form a good tight and strong joint. Be sure to apply the flux beyond the fitting to be sure no dirt or dry spots cause the solder to not stick properly.
After assembling your joint take your torch and with the tip of your flame heat the middle section of the fitting alternating sides for evenness. With your solder extended touch the joint. Keep heating until the solder melts. Now remove the heat and melt about 3/4 of an inch of solder into the joint. The heat will draw the solder into the fitting all around. You should see the solder as a ring around the entire joint. Now wipe off the excess with a rag and your done. Move on to the next joint simply repeating the same procedure.

The Green St Arch

2010-04-02T08:47:00.000-07:00

This renovation was by far the most detailed and the most fun I've yet to have in my renovation career. Today I want to go into a little more detail on how I built the arch over the windows. This arch was built completely by hand without using any pre made architectural components. The only pre made components on this wall were the large columns appearing to hold up the arch.

The first thing I needed to do was to determine my radius. I found that the radius point was right at the floor so I rigged up a board with a notch at the top for the marker. I set the board at the center of the middle window and it made a perfect arch from corner to corner of the two side windows. I now had my arch perimeter.

After rigging the compos I screwed up some 3/4 inch plywood that would be used for the inner bracing of the arch on the inner wall and using the compos and a felt marker I made the line of my arch. Using my jig saw I cut out the first piece of the arch. Then I framed down from the ceiling for the exterior wall of the arch and braced it to the plywood.

Repeating step one I hung 3/4 inch plywood on the framing, marked it and cut out the arch with my jig saw. Then I installed bracing between the two boards around the arch.

Next I extended the arch to the window using a piece of the cut off from the outside board for the arch and installing bracing in to the window. Once finished with the arch framing I installed the wiring for the lighting and sound system.

Installing the sheet rock was simple. For the arch I used 1/4 inch sheet rock in two layers to make up the 1/2 inch I wanted. I glued them together with construction adhesive and screwed them to the framing.
For the outside wall I had to shim out the framing to build up to the 3/4 inch plywood I used for the arch. I just cut and used pieces of the arch cut offs for that then installed the 1/2 inch sheet rock over it all.

For the final piece of the arch puzzle I installed a 5 inch border across the arch from wall to wall using 5/8 inch sheet rock and finishing it with bendable corner bead.

And there is the arch complete with speaker niches on either side.

EPA's Lead Based Paint RRP Program

2010-03-27T10:46:00.000-07:00

The EPA has finally begun to enforce its Lead based paint Renovation, Repair, and Painting (RRP) program that began back in 2008 but wasn't enforced until now. It requires that all contractors who's work causes a disturbance of a painted surface be certified to work with a poisonous (lead) substance and comes with a whole laundry list of new procedures that contractors need to adhere to or face huge fines, loss of certification, license to do business and even jail. Primary affected trades are renovators, handymen, painters, demolition contractors, plumbers and electricians but all contractors may be subject in the near future. For now, it's any contractor who scrapes or punches into painted surfaces in pre 1978 homes. The deadline for certification is April 22 2010.
Contractors are only affected if they work in houses that were built before 1978 therefore new build construction personnel are not required to be certified unless additions are a part of there work.

What does this mean for the contractor?

In Houses built before 1978 the contractor will be required to test for lead using an EPA approved test. If no lead is found then the contractor has to document all tests and no other procedures need to be followed. If lead is found then the whole job is considered a hazardous site and must be treated as such. This means that until the renovation is completed and passes a final clearance test no one is permitted in the renovation site who is not a certified RRP contractor. This includes other contractors and even the home owners. All areas quartered off will be posted with warning signs and no one may enter. The RRP contractor then must document all lead tests performed, Explain to the home owner the procedure and have them sign a document stating they are aware of the problems and that they received the lead based paint pamphlet, train all non certified personnel for a minimum of 1.5 hours in lead handling and procedures and document the training. Then the work area is sealed off with heavy plastic and all non movable furniture must be cleaned and sealed in plastic with all openings and folds taped up completely. The floors in the work area also must be cleaned with a HEPA vaccum and covered with heavy plastic and sealed with tape to the floor. No authorized person may enter the site without protective clothing and an EPA approved dust mask. Before leaving the site all personnel must vacuum themselves off with a HEPA vacuum, remove the protective clothing, roll it up and leave it in the protected area. Upon returning the personnel must put on new protective clothing before reentering the site. This is , in a nut shell, some of the responsibilities that the contractor is required to take on because of the RRP program.

What will the home owner get out of RRP?

Aside from the obvious higher costs to do the renovation, the home owner can expect the assurance that they are coming home to a safe and lead free environment (pertaining to the renovated portion of the home). Especially if there are children in the house.

If anyone has questions on the EPA,s RRP Program you can Go to the "contact me" page and email me. Or go to http://www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/renovation.htm.

Coping with Coping

2010-03-20T10:49:00.000-07:00

Coping a molding such as a chair rail, crown or baseboard takes time, talent and tenacity. Its not something that can be mastered overnight but with a little patience and practice you can be coping like a pro.
First of all, why cope at all? Why not miter your joints? Mitering is great if all of your corners are square. If not, you either have to play with your miter or live with the big gaps. Sometimes compound mitering is required to get a tight joint. Playing with your miter, in my opinion, is often much more time consuming than coping. It requires you make numerous cuts to find the right angle so your molding sits flush against the wall and tight in the corner. Now you will always need to do some playing on the outside corners because there is no coping for out side corners but you still cut your time in half by coping inside corners. Again this is most true in old houses where the walls are not square anymore. With coping you can put the inside corner together at almost any angle and have a nice tight joint.
The first thing you need to cope is a good coping saw. This saw is shaped like a big "D" with a handle on it. The blade is very thin and can be turned on a very tight corner when needed. Learning how to use a coping saw is not hard. It does take patience. Using pieces of scrap molding you can practice a few times before beginning your installation.
Begin by installing a piece of molding butting the ends against the walls. This is the piece you are going to cope to. Next take your molding and, before cutting it to length, cope the end that will be put up against the installed molding. Cope it in this way.

First, cut a miter on the end to be butt to the other molding. Now, if you look at the cut you can see the profile of the molding. Take a pencil if you want and rub it on the profile to make it stick out better. Take your coping saw and start cutting on the profile line but with the saw angled in the reverse direction of the angle of the miter.

Follow the profile as closely as you can. The more you practice the better you will get. After you finished the cut take a piece of sand paper and gently clean up the edge being careful not to distort the profile.

Now your cope is complete. You can take your piece, put it in place and measure your cut. The other end will be butt up to the wall and the next piece will be coped to it.

Coping is really that simple. It can take a lot less time to cope than to experiment with miter angles to find the best miter. The more you practice your coping skills the better you will become at coping.

Have fun with your new found skill.

The Home Grown Remodeler

2010-03-15T07:59:00.000-07:00

Many home owners these days are attempting remodeling projects themselves. Due to the economy we look for ways to save money and still do the upgrades we want on our homes. This may not be in the owners best interest however. Remodeling takes a level of skill that most home owners don't have not to mention the specialized tools required to do the work right. And I repeat the word "right". I've fixed many home owner jobs that looked good but after a few months fell apart. Most often I'm rehanging kitchen cabinets that have fallen off the wall or fixing sheet rock joints that just don't seem to want to stay together. The most dangerous home owner fixes I've done involved their electrical wiring. Twisting wires together and taping it is not a safe way to fix or extend outlet or switch lines. If you can't replace the wire back to the last connection box then there are wire connectors today for the purpose of splicing romex wire. These splice kits aren't cheep so you want to keep your spicing down to the bare minimum. Also they are not the easiest things to use so plan on ruining the first one as your learning curve. If you can't get it right then don't fake it. This kind of situation can and does lead to house fires.

If you don't know the basic codes or construction standards then you really shouldn't be doing the work by yourself. Another frequent safety violation I have found is a home owner taking down a wall and building a small addition off the side of the house. Remember, most exterior walls are load bearing walls. That means they are what holds up the house. (The exception is row homes where the party walls are the load bearing walls). You must reinforce the structural framing and install a header across the opening. If you don't, the opening will sag sometimes right away, sometimes after a few months. Depending on the size of the opening and the condition and age of the house this may even contribute to the collapse of the house. So far in the last 6 years of work I've had to jack up three roofs and install headers. Therefore if you don't know what you are doing it is best to get professional help. Maybe you have a friend who has experience who will be willing to help you. Maybe buy a few remodeling books at home depot. I wouldn't rely to heavily on the Home Depot thing though. The best thing, find yourself an experienced friend or professional to help with structural load bearing walls, an electrician and a plumber if needed. The rest of it you can probably stumble through without doing much harm.

Window Seats

2010-03-14T10:35:00.001-07:00

Adding a window seat is one of those small but great additions you can make to beautify your home. Window seats can be a great place to relax and gaze out the window while catching up on some reading and it can also provide some extra storage. Building a window seat can range from very simple in design to complex depending on the taste of the client. This window seat I built for a client falls in the more complex category because it had to fit in an uneven space, it had to have doors on the top and it is long and wide.

Here you can see the unevenness of the wall below the window. This was part of the design that held the small pillars between the windows so I had to work around it and I knew this from the beginning. So I decided that making individual boxes and putting them together was the quickest way to build the seat. Each box is fully glued, screwed, and reinforced with corner blocking at the top and under the box floor. Each box was also reinforced under the rear top plate where the hinges were mounted so I could use longer screws than those that came with the hinges. The two by threes you see doubled up between the boxes were to hold the seat backs in place. You can see them in this next picture. The box lids were also reinforced to strengthen them for sitting and to help prevent warping over time. The lids were mounted using piano hinges cut to length and flush mount pulls were used for opening them. The seat backs I made from 2x6 stock and 3/4 inch square aluminum tube for the posts. First I routed the edges of the seat back to round then off and to add a little life to them. Then I drilled two 3/4 inch holes on one side of them. Now the holes were round and the posts were square but that was okay. On the posts, using a grinding wheel I sharpened one side of the post edges. Next I mixed up some epoxy and dripped it into the holes. Finally, sharp edge first, I drove the posts into the holes with a piece of 2x3 until they were set firm.

And that was it. This seat took a good four days to build.

Planning Your Renovation: The Design Build Process

2010-03-13T11:59:00.000-08:00

Need extra space in your home? Or maybe you just don't like the way your existing space is laid out and you want a change. A good renovator can help. The Design/Build contractor is one who has the staff or the ability to design your project himself. Here I want to talk about the design/build process so you have an idea what to expect if you ever get yourself involved in a large renovation project on your home.

So you've contacted a renovation contractor to renovate your existing space with an addition and set up a meeting with him. This is the INITIAL MEETING. At the client - contractor interview You will want to ask questions related to the contractors qualification and abilities to complete the work you want done. This could include "design to finish" or if you have an architect and design already just the construction management. Also at this meeting the contractor will want some background information on you as well to qualify you as to how serious you are in getting the project done or are you just "kicking tires".

Also at this meeting would be the project overview. Here you will discuss your project and the priority in which it is to be completed. The budget, general costs and value along with an overview of the design/build process should be discussed as I am discussing with you now. Next item of interest is design choices and the costs for this service. The architect will generally charge a fee of 2 1/2 % of the costs of the project. Add to that another 2 1/2% for the construction drawings(electrical, plumbing etc.). Designer fees typically range from $1000.00 and up. Small projects such as a kitchen remodel, $500.00 and up. Then you could have interior decorator fees as well if you choose to have someone else decorate for you. Finally you will expect to discuss protection efforts and construction guidelines to protect your home during construction and also your living requirements during the process.

The next meeting you will have is the DESIGN MEETING. At this meeting you will be introduced to the designer or architect to discuss their qualifications along with the project overview, budget, project priorities and special interests. A discussion of the fees and the design agreement will end this meeting.

The AGREEMENT MEETING will come next where you read, discuss, and sign the design agreement and establish a design program with the designer/architect.

At the FIELD MEASUREMENT MEETING the contractor takes measurements around the home for the preliminary drawings and to determine if a new lot survey is required.

PRELIMINARY DRAWING SUBMISSION MEETING is set up to discuss and finalize the design and to provide the contractor with his copy of the designs.

The PRELIMINARY DESIGN DETAIL MEETING is when the contractor, architect,and the client come together to review the plans and to make changes if needed.

PREPARE AND SUBMIT PRELIMINARY DESIGN COST ESTIMATE. Here we obtain estimates from major subcontractors, discuss preliminary costs, compare them to the budget and make any changes. Allowances are discussed and a product selection guide may be given to the client.

PREPARE CONSTRUCTION DRAWINGS. At this meeting the client can begin to make their product selections such as cabinets, bath fixtures, flooring etc.along with the designer/architect and possibly an interior designer.

At the PREPARE AND SUBMIT FINAL PROJECT BID MEETING the major subcontractors provide their final bids based on the final drawings, the final costs on allowances and product selections are determined and the drawings, costs and scope of work is reviewed with the client.

At this point the FINANCING PROCEDURES begin. The loan application is filled out and submitted to the lender along with the bid and drawings. The loan officer may require an appraisal. In some states the contractors contract may not be signed for a period of time such as 12 days. Next an appointment will be set for the signing of the loan and the contractors contract and you may need to sign a disclosure statement. This will take place at the bank or lenders office.

APPLY FOR THE PERMIT and complete the selection guide. The introduction of the project manager, marketing manager, lead carpenter, and demo/site prep subcontractor will be held at the PRE CONSTRUCTION CONFERENCE. Present the client with contractor/project manage phone numbers and an up graded scope of work narrative.

BEGIN SITE PREPARATION AND DEMO

SUBMIT FIRST DRAW INVOICE AND RECEIVE PAYMENT

Woodward Restoration

2010-03-12T16:27:00.000-08:00

Notably, this picture doesn't say much. Its just a light on the ceiling. But a few weeks prior there was water flowing out of this light on its way to the basement from the third floor bath room sink that sprung a leak while the owners were away on a week vacation. How's that for a welcome home! Needless to say it took out the third floor bathroom floor, a second floor bedroom ceiling(this one), wall and hard wood flooring, the second floor hallway ceiling and hard wood flooring, the first floor hallway ceiling and the dining room ceiling and two walls and a portion of the flooring. Also damaged were the built in shelving in the dining room.
My job began with my estimate to the insurance company. Being the first time I've done work for an insurance company it was a real learning experience for me. They are not easy to work for and they think they are better estimators than us(contractors). I swear instead of adding profit to the end of the estimate they subtract a percentage. Anyway I totally broke even on this job and that's better than losing isn't it.

This is what the bedroom ceiling looked like when I came into the picture. The insurance company already had a demo crew in to remove all of the wet plaster and dry out the house. Yes, plaster. Not sheet rock. And plaster is what the home owner wanted put back. On top of that the flooring that needed replacing was to be two inch strip board, top nailed. Okay, no problem, historical restoration is part of what I do. My only concern was will the insurance company pay me for this type of work. Well, in the end, no.

So why did I chose to do a job for four thousand dollars less than my estimate? (the approximate amount of my profit at ten percent). Because I wanted the challenge of the job to keep myself sharp? I wanted the experience of working for an insurance company? Well, partly. They were referred to me by their neighbor who is already an excellent client of mine. These ladies know a lot of people and I want more referrals from them. I did the job as a favor to them and though at times I lose a bit I find that in the long run I gain a whole lot more. My customers are gold and I treat them that way and in return they always call me back and refer me to their friends and neighbors. It's how I've stayed in business for the past ten years without advertising.

So here we are. The third floor bath room floor is completed and we are working our way down. This looks like sheet rock and is very similar but it's not. It's called blue board which is a plaster lath that was used about eighty years ago to replace the wood lath in plaster walls and ceilings. This thank God was what was used in the construction of this house. It goes up the same as sheet rock but made to be plastered over. We installed the blue board on all walls and ceilings before we began to plaster so we didn't waist a lot of plaster stopping at the end of a wall then needing to install more blue board. Plaster hardens very quickly so you had to use up all that you mixed quickly. It would not wait for you to hang another wall like forty five or ninety minute compound would. Now with all of the blue board in place we were ready to begin the plastering. Here we see the far wall has been completed and the ceiling is still in the process. The easiest way to plaster on blue board is to trowel stripes about the width of your blade and leaving an unfinished stripe the width of the blade between plaster stripes. When the plaster hardens but before it dries you go over it again filling in between the plaster stripes. After you completely cover the wall in this way you start again the same way. Make sure you complete all coats at one time while the plaster is hard but still wet. If you add the second coat the next day when the plaster is dry it will literally suck the water right out of the plaster you are trying to put up and it will give you nothing but trouble. This picture better shows the striping method of installing the plaster. After the plaster is fully
dried a quick scrub with a sanding pole took out any little imperfections. Definitely the key is to get the plaster as smooth as possible while it is still soft.

After all of the plastering was completed we re installed all of the crown, baseboard and door trim. We also replaced some of the casing around the openings to the dining room and the living room. Because some of the crown went missing since the demo I put my wood working skills to work and reproduced a few small pieces by hand.

Next we moved on to paint at the request of the home owners. They did not want paint spilling on their new and refinished flooring so we did that part last.

Here I am ripping up the old water damaged flooring in the bed room. Lots of wood to bundle up and lots of nails to bend over and remove from the sub flooring. You have to love what you do to do this work at times.

So why is it you always see Eric working and me fooling around? Well somebody's got to get the work done. Besides, I'm the one taking all the pictures.

The bedroom floor is about finished and we are moving out into the hall way. All I can say now is thank God for nail guns because it took over four thousand nails to top nail this bed room floor. It was bad enough that we had to go over it with a nail punch.

Need I say more.

Eric is finishing up the hall way while I was punching nails in the bedroom.

With the new flooring down and the nails punched and filled it is time to begin the floor refinishing process.

That's me operating the drum sander. Floor sanding is an art in itself. If you don't know what your doing you can cause a lot of damage to your floor. I've seen professional floor

refinishers hack a floor up and I can't understand

how they are still in business. But that just lets you know you get what you pay for. If you look for the cheapest contractor, you get the cheapest work.

As with the drum sander, the edger can be difficult to use well. It's the edger that can do the most damage in a floor refinishing project. If the user is inexperienced forget it, the floor will likely be destroyed. Unless your okay with your floors looking like the ocean during a hurricane I don't recommend anyone trying to refinish their own floors.

Lastly we put down the floor finish or polyurethane. Though this is the easiest part of floor refinishing it still has its things to watch out for. Dirt is the most important thing. You must thoroughly clean all areas of the room before putting down the finish. Vacuuming all of the room especially the perimeter to get at the dirt and wood dust that is under the baseboard molding and between the boards. Pooling is another one of them. You have to watch for pooling in areas near the walls and where you end a stroke with the applicator. Bubbles in the poly can be caused by using the wrong kind of applicator such as foam or a pa

int roller. The best applicator for the job I've found is still the lamb skin applicator though at times you may have to pick out a piece of lambs wool. And finaly, missing spots can really make the refinished floor look bad. Its hard to miss spots on the first coat but the second and third it is very easy especially with high gloss polyurethane like we used here. Don't forget to buff the floor between coats. I like the square buff sander with one hundred or one twenty grit sanding screen.

After finishing the floors we reinstalled the built in shelving, the heater covers and touched up the paint and gave a final cleaning. We finished on time and on budget.

The Ten Commitments

2010-03-11T21:30:00.000-08:00

Ten Commitments to Our Customers

1) Our commitment to honor our craft with creative design, packaged with a high quality construction.